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Tracking Time: Gold Watches

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Gold has always been a favorite of watch enthusiasts since time immemorial. And in the past six months, when the global economy collapsed due to the Covid-19 pandemic, the metal has returned to the limelight as a haven for investors seeking to keep their money. money away from volatile stock markets. It gave us a good opportunity to look at the best gold watches you can buy. For starters, however, a little primer on the gold used in the manufacture of watches. The 18k gold used in luxury watches is a combination of 75% pure gold and a mixture of various other metals in proportions, depending on the shade desired. Yellow gold is an alloy of pure gold, silver and copper. # Rose, Everose and Red gold are also made by combining pure gold with copper and silver. But the proportion of copper in the alloy is adjusted for the desired shade of red or pink. # White gold, which has become very popular these days, is made by mixing pure gold with nickel, palladium, zinc and copper.

JAQUET DROZ GRANDE SECONDE QUANTIME IVORY ENAMEL

The 41mm case of this watch is made of 18k red gold. The dial features double-layered ivory Grand Fleu enamel, with 18k red gold appliques. In typical Jaquet Droz style, the hours and minutes are off-center at 12 o’clock, while the large off-center seconds sub-dial is at 6. The Jaquet Droz 2660Q2 self-winding mechanical movement has an oscillating weight in 18 karat red gold. 68-hour power reserve.

BVLGARI OCTO FINISSIMO AUTOMATIC BLASTED GOLD

Part of the Octo Finissimo line of ultra-thin watches launched just six years ago, this automatic version comes in a 40mm case in sandblasted 18k rose gold with a thickness of just 5.15mm. The Bulgari BVL138 caliber is just 2.23mm thick and offers a 60-hour power reserve.

ROLEX 41 SUBMARINER DATE

The yellow gold used in the making of the 41mm case of this Submariner Date is made in Rolex’s own foundry. It is powered by a self-winding caliber 3235 perpetual mechanical movement, with a 70-hour power reserve. Comes with a unidirectional rotating bezel with Cerachrom insert and solid link Oyster bracelet.

LANGE & SÖHNE 1815 THIN HONEYGOLD

A.Lange & Sohne first developed the special Honeygold alloy in 2010 for their limited edition watches, to celebrate the brand’s 165 years. The gold composition of the alloy is a secret, but it is known to be harder and more scratch resistant than regular gold. This watch celebrates 175 years of the brand and comes in a 38mm case that is just 6.3mm thick. The manually-wound L093.1 caliber has a 72-hour power reserve

VACHERON CONSTANTIN OVERSEAS AUTOMATIC WINDING FULL ROSE GOLD

This stunning new addition to the Overseas line is presented in a 41mm rose gold case, with an 18k rose gold full strap option. The dial features a blue lacquered satin finish with gold indexes. Powered by the Vacheron Constantin 5100 automatic movement, with a 60-hour power reserve.

HUBLOT CLASSIC FUSION 40TH ANNIVERSARY

Calling it “the art of fusion”, Hublot broke all luxury rules in 1980 by putting a rubber strap on a gold watch. This turned out to be a pioneering initiative. The brand celebrates the icon’s 40th anniversary with this watch in a polished 45mm 18k yellow gold case. The bezel is also in yellow gold with the famous six titanium screws. The dial is in black lacquer, while the clasp of the black rubber bracelets is in yellow gold. The Hub1112 self-winding movement has a 42-hour power reserve.

LIGHT MARINA PANERAI GOLDTECH44MM

Goldtech is an exclusive Panerai alloy developed in its Laboratorio di Idee, and is used to manufacture the 44mm case of this watch. The high percentage of copper (24 percent) combined with platinum (0.4 percent) in the alloy is the key to achieving its intense tone and extreme resistance to oxidation. Its look is further enhanced by the deep blue sandwich dial with sun-satin finish. The Panerai Caliber P.9010 automatic movement is just 6mm thick, but offers a three-day power reserve.

PATEK PHILIPPE REF. 5270J001 CHRONOGRAPH PERPETUAL CALENDAR

This watch represents for the first time the iconic Patek Philippe perpetual calendar chronograph, offered in a 41mm yellow gold case. The opaline silvered dial also features yellow gold markers and yellow gold leaf hands with indications for hours, minutes, small seconds, day, date, month, leap year, day and at night, the phase of the moon, the chronograph with instant 30- minute display, and a tachymeter scale located between an inner chapter for the minutes and an outer chapter for the chronograph seconds. Powered by the manual-winding CH-29-535 PS Q caliber movement which offers a power reserve of up to 65 hours.

GRAND SEIKO ELEGANCE 60TH ANNIVERSARY IN ROSE GOLD

This slim special 60th anniversary edition of the Grand Seiko Elegance is presented in a 39mm 18k rose gold case. Its patterned green dial celebrates the beauty of Shizukuishi, the woodland town in northwestern Japan, home to Grand Seiko mechanical watches. The hand-wound caliber 9S64 has a 72-hour power reserve.

IWC PORTUGIESER AUTOMATIC 42

The 42mm case of this automatic Portugieser is made of 18k 5N gold. It is a variant of rose gold with less silver and more copper than 4N gold, giving it a redder appearance and increased hardness. The blue dial displays the power reserve at 3 o’clock and the small second at 9 o’clock. It is powered by the IWC automatic caliber 52010, with an impressive seven-day power reserve.

ROGER DUBUIS EXCALIBUR SUPERBIA

It has been described by some as the epitome of opulence. Roger Dubuis classifies it as a “hyperwatch”, as in a hyper-luxury watch. The 45mm case and lugs are in white gold. But you can hardly see them as they are paved with 600 hand-set tetrahedron-cut diamonds and deep blue sapphires. No wonder the designers engraved a discreet “Memento Mori” on the watch. The Latin phrase translates to “remember you must die”, and is meant to imply that we are all mortal, so enjoy life while you can. Powered by the Roger Dubuis double tourbillon movement known as caliber RD0108SQ, with two adjacent flying tourbillons on the dial. 72 hour power reserve.

BREGUET TRADITION AUTOMATIC SECOND RETROGRADE 7097

This watch in a 40mm 18k white gold case takes its name from the retrograde seconds hand at 10 o’clock. The semi-circle with a circular brushed finish superimposed on the dial provides readability and highlights the complication of the retrograde seconds. The bumper, a Breguet invention which protects the balance from shocks and is emblematic of the Tradition collection, is located at 4 o’clock. The self-winding movement offers a 50-hour power reserve.

CHOPARD L.U.C XPS TWIST QF

Chopard has earned its reputation as a sustainable company that ensures all of its gold is ethically mined. This limited edition watch (250 pieces), with a distinctive offset small seconds display and offset crown, is presented in a slim 40mm white gold case. Powered by Chopard’s self-winding caliber 96.26-L, with a 65-hour power reserve.

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